Previous Posts in Tangents

Amanda’s Starter Guide to a so-called City: Richmond

Amanda’s Starter Guide to a so-called City: Richmond

September 12, 2008 by Amanda

I have relocated to Richmond, Virginia, the city of one-way streets to attend their artsy-fartsy university – VCU. For a suburban brat that has spoiled herself with the happenings of DC for the past four years, Richmond has very little. I love DC and I’m trying to like Richmond, but it’s not working. To try and convince myself that this city is the bees knees I will be presenting to you weekly installments of what the hell one does in this city.

Wait, I’m sorry. I’m supposed to be uncovering the diamond in the rough.

Richmond is a beautiful city with plenty to offer.

Better?

In all seriousness though, in the few weeks that I’ve been here I have found plenty that is worthwhile, at least for a day-trip. Nothing that I’ve seen has convinced me that Richmond is worthy of my permanent residence, but we’ll see what four years can do.

So here it goes. What does Richmond have that DC doesn’t?

  • The Byrd.This once-upon-a-time opera house was saved from being condemned and turned into a dollar theater. It’s located in Cary town (Cary town is what would happen if you combined U st. with King St.) in the west end (rich end) of the city. Sure they only show movies that have been out of regular theaters for a couple months, but it’s also only $2. And if you are poor, like me, you won’t mind the wait; or if you’d rather, those of you that want to see a movie again, but don’t want to spend the ten bucks, The Byrd is a great alternative to your local cinema.

  • Breakfast Places.DC doesn’t have any. And there are two not so far away from where I live – about a ten minute bike ride.

First up, Perly’s – Downtown.

Perly’s is open every day from about 8 am to 3 pm. It’s decorated in 1920’s art-deco and has a very simple charm. The people that work there are friendly and helpful, the food is wonderful and they pay attention to detail. I’ve eaten there three times, now, and each time was pleasant. They serve breakfast until eleven on weekdays and all day on weekends. It is exceptionally affordable – nothing is over ten dollars. You can’t beat great food at that price.

Second, Millie’s Diner< – Shockoe Bottom

Okay, so they’re not really a breakfast place, but they serve brunch on the weekends, and that’s kind of like breakfast. If you get there even an hour after they open, you can anticipate a line. This place is the weekend-morning hot spot. They have different specials every day, and sometimes they include my personal favorite, apple-sausage (no, not veggie, it’s sausage with cinnamon-y apples in it, I think).

In addition to having great food they play up a modern diner theme with juke-boxes at each table (think Silver Diner). These play everything from the Beatles to the White Stripes.

Oh, did I mention they have a bar. They do. You can screw-drivers with your omelet, before noon.

  • Outdoors Activities – for those of you that want more than just a bike ride to your next destination.

Hollywood Cemetery

I’m not usually one to enjoy cemeteries, but Hollywood leaves ghosts and goblins to the movies. It is the resting place of presidents James Monroe and John Tyler, and the Confederacy’s president Jefferson Davis, and a bunch of other famous people from the Confederacy. But mostly, I just think it’s pretty. It’s perfect for a picnic, writing, reading, and the people you will encounter are few – though tourists will drive through, so find a place that’s not close to the road. The hillsides are covered in cobblestone and dotted with large tombs. If you have a good eye find a tomb with seating (strange, I know), cool off and enjoy the view.

*Do not listen to ‘Graveyard Girl’ by M83 while you are here.

  • Indoors Activities – kind of, I’ll have more later

Penny Lane’s Pub

This import from England is owned by the O’Neils straight from Liverpool. They play all Beatles all the time and have a good portion devoted to them. They have three spaces- an indoor patio, a bar, and a pool hall – all three are accessible and cozy. I like to bring my laptop and plug in. They’re open until two every night and the transient crowd doesn’t make too much noise.

They host karaoke on Mondays and poker on Tuesdays and Thursdays and a trivia night each Wednesday. If you’re a European Football (Futbol?) fan come watch the game, or a VHS of highlights.

Go alone or with a group, either way you’re ensured good food and friendly conversation.

More to come.
I promise

RVA Says:

Dissing richmond=sacrilege

September 12, 2008 at 11:07 am
bacon and eggs Says:

But dc has quite a few breaKfast places.

September 12, 2008 at 11:18 am
Michael Says:

DC doesn’t have many good breakfast places. The Diner doesn’t count. It sucks. FAG used to be good but then all the honkey hipsters who moved into the area over the past 4 years “discovered” it and it’s jam packed (plus they stopped their $1.99 breakfast special a few years ago). There is a diner I frequent that still hasn’t been douchebagerized though and it’s so close to hipsterdom that it’s funny but I guess it hasn’t been mentioned on a blog so people don’t know it’s ok to be seen there. It’s where I go. Hardly any white people ruining it and the best homemade cakes in the world.

P.S. The South shall rise again. Jefferson Davis was like my great second cousin or something like that.

September 12, 2008 at 11:25 am
heather Says:

Richmond also has way more awesome vegan eats options. The best: Panda Veg. Go. Now.

September 12, 2008 at 11:30 am
tonysmallframe Says:

Michael – I think I know the place. Also, Penny Lane is where dirty hands lopez got really sloppy last year and fell down the stairs. At least I think it was him. I was a bit tipsy myself. Good bar, though.

September 12, 2008 at 11:39 am
Michael Says:

Tony – we should hit it up for breakfast one morning then put this P Racer together. I’ve got parts coming on Monday.

Dirty Hands Lopez is kind of the most awesome dude ever. He’d be worth moving to Richmond to just hang out with.

September 12, 2008 at 11:48 am
Amanda Says:

heather: i’ve been to panda veg and i was going to write about it in my next post.

September 12, 2008 at 11:51 am
Sexy Fitsum Says:

Don’t know if it’s still around but I really liked Strawberry Street Cafe. great food, service and price. almost like a dream really. I recommended it to everyone I could. If it’s still there and still as good, I recommend it. Richmond is a cool town overall, casually racist cops and all

September 12, 2008 at 12:04 pm
Amanda Says:

Stop it! you’re giving everything away!

i will be going to more of these places, thanks for all the suggestions!

September 12, 2008 at 12:26 pm
Lily Says:

i make a point of hitting up Richmond once a year for this:
http://jamminonthejames.com/

great vintage shopping in the Fan too
good thing i don’t live there
otherwise i’d spending way too much shopping

September 12, 2008 at 12:33 pm
Floyd Says:

I spent 8 years in Richmond. It took me a year to warm up to the place because I was naive, but once you do, you see how much it has to offer. Its cheap, lazy, dirty, scenic, and perfect. The season is over, but getting loaded at Hadads Lake is white trash paradise.

September 12, 2008 at 12:51 pm
Michael Says:

Amanda if you can get a photo with Dirty Hands Lopez I will pay you one single crisp $5 bill.

Oh and you should figure out when they make those boats and move them up and down the James. I forget what it’s called.

September 12, 2008 at 12:54 pm
Lily Says:

and i forgot, drag brunch at Godfrey’s downtown
get there early on Sunday, there’s always a line

great food though and drag queens with fierce routines that can start by crawling on the parked cars outside before they make their way into the space

September 12, 2008 at 12:59 pm
Greg Says:

i fucking hate richmond. so much. a lot of it is how shitty the drive is from dc/bmore to richmond. WHY IS THERE SO MUCH TRAFFIC AND NO ACCIDENT!

September 12, 2008 at 1:03 pm
Sexy Fitsum Says:

you’ll write about casually racist Richmond cops? oops. sorry.

September 12, 2008 at 1:05 pm
Demrain Says:

Give Richmond time to grow on you. Before you know it the Richmond “curse” will get you. I almost couldn’t get out of there because I was so in love with that small city when attending VCU (artsy fartsy school). Returning to DC afterwards was a shock. Back to rude assholes, bad/ aggressive drivers, culture-less DC. But now I’m back to being a true Washingtonian. Now F** off, I’m too important for you.

September 12, 2008 at 1:22 pm
Michael Says:

Greg – no shit. I remember when it took an hour and 15 minutes to get to Richmond, now, no matter what time I leave, it takes 2+ Just a few weeks ago I left for Richmond on a saturday morning and at 8:30 am was in a dead standstill on the interstate.

AND NO ACCIDENT! Just idiots.

September 12, 2008 at 1:30 pm
Amanda Says:

Greg: i hate the drive too, but if you leave late/early it’s easy to miss the commuters.

lily: i’ll get to the shopping/thirft stores.

michael: i’ll do my best.

fitsum: i have yet to have an encounter with the cops, but then i’m as white as they come. do you care to relay your story?

September 12, 2008 at 1:33 pm
Amanda Says:

Demrain: no, it won’t. the “black hole” (as it’s been refered to as my coworkers who are also not from richmond) will not get. I cannot count how many times i’ve been called a snob by natives/townies, i’m down with being a snob, i like my snobbery and i miss all my fellow snobs/elitists in DC.

September 12, 2008 at 1:36 pm
Will Says:

The Richmond Art Museum has one of the few extant Caligula statues from the era of his reign; most were destroyed, for obvious reasons. It’s a remarkable piece of sculpture considering its unlikely survival to present day in one piece.

September 12, 2008 at 3:55 pm
chad Says:

Amanda, if anyone in Richmond calls you a snob, just let them know you grew up in Woodbridge. Not much to be uppity about there. It ain’t even in Fairfax County.

September 12, 2008 at 5:21 pm
Amanda Says:

chad, at which point they’ll say “you mean hoodbridge?” and i will correct them and say that i grew up in Lake Ridge…the nice part.

i hate claiming woodbridge, the only good about it is it’s five minutes from 95, and 20-30 from DC.

it may not be in fairfax, but it’s more a part of fairfax than PW culturally. the rest of PW is pretty rural. I can get to DC in the amount of time it takes me to get to manassas.

September 12, 2008 at 8:53 pm
$mond Says:

richmond is good:

check out cous cous (owned by the guys that run sticky rice)

KUBA KUBA: the best cuban food i have ever had

if you want to make your stomach hurt from too much veggie chinese food/mock meat check out panda veg’s buffet

richmond also has some of the best tattoo artists on the east coast

anyways, lots of good food and friendly people in richmond i would visit more often if i could

September 13, 2008 at 3:41 pm
DC vs Richmond? Says:

I’ve really never quite understood the Richmond vs. DC/Nova rivalry. Not being native to either area probably is part of that, but I’m definitely more attached to DC than Richmond and have visited Richmond many many times.

I think though, that Richmondites have much more vitriol for DC than vice versa. I don’t routinely hate on Richmond I suppose because it’s not really part of my daily radar. But I hear Richmond-ers curse about DC on a fairly consistent basis. Why is this? Can any Richmonders explain in a reasonably intelligent manner without just saying “DC Sucks” or “NOVA is full of assholes”. Which might both be true, but I’d like a little more thorough of an explanation, if possible.

September 14, 2008 at 6:15 pm
Amanda Says:

i don’t know much about richmond’s resentment of DC, but i do know about the NOVA v. ROVA (rest of va) rivalry. I think the biggest difference is money and motivation, nova has both, richmond has nothing, except southern pride, and i just don’t understand that at all.

nova is also mostly democratic while the rest of the state is very red. nova is a very small area geographically but produces close to half of the states money and resents not getting it back in the form of state funding (mostly for infrastructure – they’ve been debating about extending the metro to dulles for years, but the rest of the state doesn’t see a reason for it).

if there’s any resentment towards DC it’s because of all the people from nova who say they’re from dc, i.e. me.

richmond is a traditional, laid back, southern town. they just don’t like them yankees.

September 14, 2008 at 9:31 pm
breakfast Says:

Waffle house at 10th and F NW

September 15, 2008 at 8:48 am
rva Says:

carytown is NOT the west end! the west end is like libbie and grove, short pump..basically like willow lawn and westward… ie the west end is lame except for the westhampton theater

September 15, 2008 at 10:32 am
Amanda Says:

breakfast: when i’m talking “breakfast places” i mean independently owned cafes and diners. the waffle house doesn’t count.

rva: no, shortpump is the “new westend.” shortpump is not really in the city. it’s the equivalent of tyson’s.

September 15, 2008 at 10:37 am
chad Says:

I believe breakfast is referring to the Waffle Shop in downtown DC. which is not a waffle house. it is a legitimate breakfast place and diner. it may not be open all night, but it does open at 5:30 am for breakfast.

September 15, 2008 at 11:29 am
Naseem Says:

I definitely saw a CENTIPEDE at Panda Veg once..

September 24, 2008 at 4:09 am