While H&M might be the mass retailer accountable for kicking off the diffusion line-insanity of the last few years, the massive success of Target’s early GO.International designer collaborations makes them the model against which all other capsule collections are judged. Target’s latest designer offerings, however, have been hit-or-miss: while the Temperley line was underwhelming, Erin Fetherston’s collection, for the most part, wowed. More recently, Jovovich Hawk came and went without any standout pieces or must-have items, and the current GO.International line, which, with its modern shapes, colorblocking, and less-than-stellar fabrics, could easily be mistaken for a joint Target/H&M venture. While the collections still seem to be selling well (at least in the DC area stores), they have, as of late, lost a crucial credibility factor: internet buzz.

It’s not just the for-Target lines that the fashion blogs have lost interest in: Tara Subkoff’s Bebe line failed to attract much attention in February; Biba founder Celia Birtwell’s line at Express had a barely-noticeable arrival last month; the Vera Wang Lavender label at Kohl’s is in its second season, but who would know? The market has, for better or worse, been flooded with diffusion lines, and sheer percentage deems that some collections will fall flat – whether it be for reasons of quality (Patrick Robinson-for-Target), aesthetic (Cavalli-for-H&M), or the simple fact that the excitement once reserved for a Stella McCartney-for-H&M line or a Proenza-for-Target capsule can’t be resurrected every single time a designer signs a contract to go mainstream.

Target has been maintaining strong blog interest in its “lesser” accessory line collaborations; the current Gryson-for-Target handbag collection and especially the Subversive-for-Target jewelry line both had high levels of online enthusiasm (as did similar retailer/designer pairings, particularly Gap’s Pierre Hardy-designed summer shoe line). And as far as GO.International is concerned, Rogan Gregory’s upcoming for-Target line stands a strong chance of revitalizing the concept as a whole. The certified-organic collection’s safari/beach theme is incredibly of-the-moment in both aesthetic and eco-consciousness – so on target, in fact, that Barney’s Co-Op will carry the eco-friendly line for five days in NY and LA stores before it’s even available at Target – an occurrence not gone unnoticed by major fashion blogs like Fashionista and Nitro:Licious.

Is backing from the fashion blogs integral to a diffusion line’s, particularly a Target diffusion line’s, success? In a sense, yes. Ultimately, the success of any retailer/designer partnership will be measured by sales; however, the last several years have seen fashion blogs become not only an audible voice but a voice of importance. Approving or dissenting online opinions can make or break a line’s credibility in the online fashion world – and while Target seems to be well aware of this (collaboration news is leaked well before announced at the Target Pressroom site, as are images from the collections), it seems like every other collection creates a little less noise. The only way for Target to stay relevant in a sea of diffusion lines is to keep taking the lines a step further – and the improved materials and eco-conscious aspect of the Rogan collection is certainly a starting point.

Are you still interested in the for-Target lines? Before the City Target opened, which did you trek out to the suburbs for?