Tonight marks the end of NY Fashion Week, and let's get real - judging from what we've seen so far (which here includes all shows posted on NYMag.com before 11pm last night), next Fall is looking a whole lot like last year - and much of what doesn't qualify as Fall 07 DOES qualify as "updated Spring 08." I'm definitely not opposed to either (in all honesty, it just means I won't feel the urge to buy as much), but what's really interesting is what's new - huge collars, exaggerated lengths, lots of leather, and bows and frill and ruffles galore. Let's get started, yes?
above, l-r: Jason Wu, Doo.Ri, Malo, Betsey Johnson, Erin Fetherston, James Coviello, Jonathan Saunders, Alexander Wang, Michael Kors, and Peter Som.
Oh, Fall 07, we're delighted to see you again. Repeat performers include long gloves, colored tights, and glossy, shiny patent leather effects. See also: plaid (at Peter Som, Preen, Thakoon, Marc by Marc, Y-3, and Karen Walker), jewel tones (Marchesa, J. Mendel, Richard Chai, Lela Rose, Reyes, Behnaz Sarafpour, and Jason Wu), rich pops of color (Jonathan Saunders, Karen Walker, Erin Fetherston), and booties (OMG THEY'RE EVERYWHERE. AGAIN.).
above, l-r: James Coviello, Rachel Comey, Jovovich-Hawk, Jonathan Saunders, Karen Walker, Benjamin Cho, Preen, Lela Rose, Halston, and Matthew Williamson.
Spring/Summer to Fall/Winter will be an easy transition (to say the least). Art-inspired prints, sheer accents, and grown-up neons will get you through from now until the end of the year, as will cinched waists (at DVF, Temperley, Matthew Williamson, Behnaz Sarafpour, Zero Maria Cornejo, and 3.1 Phillip Lim) and florals (Anna Sui, Derek Lam, Karen Walker, EVERYONE ELSE). Even Rodarte, usually off in la-la land and generally uncategorizable, managed to hit all the aforementioned trends.
above, l-r: Yigal Azrouel, Proenza Schouler, Doo.Ri, Halston, Karen Walker, Peter Som, Lela Rose, Alexandre Herchcovitch, and Benjamin Cho.
So what's NEW? Well, grey is no longer the new black. Black is back. Length was important, collars are BIG, and kooky is the name of the game when integrating color (Style Bubble's "circus" post from a few weeks ago now seems terribly prescient...). Also on the radar: fringe (at Anna Sui, Temperley, and Karen Walker), LEATHER (it was almost literally everywhere; I don't even know how to begin linking to it), big fat bows (Vera Wang, Marc by Marc, Anna Sui) and headwear to rival even the turban in sheer novelty (3.1 Phillip Lim, Chris Benz, Ports 1961).
Again, I'm kind of into the fact that things aren't changing much, and there were plenty examples of designers getting things really right. My favorites so far are Chris Benz (sublime kook), Vera Wang (mostly for this), Proenza Schouler (like a fine wine, guys), Alexander Wang (dark and 90s and DERELIIIIIIICTE), and Rachel Comey (natch). Shows I expected to like but wasn't completely sold on were Erin Fetherston (I hated the flats and some of it was just TOO SPRING, but the darker looks and those knit caps were a knockout), Karen Walker (I liked most of it, but some of the oddball proportions hurt my brain), and 3.1 Phillip Lim (I was split right down the middle on that one); shows I made a cringe-y face at included Badgley Mischka (old!) and Betsey Johnson (I like her collections so much better when they don't scream of, well, Betsey Johnson). As for the rest of Fashion Week, I'm looking forward to seeing what the Marc Jacobs show will look like (though I imagine we'll all think it's batshit crazy, until next season when everyone else has followed suit. See: THIS YEAR), and I'm eagerly anticipating the Jenni Kayne show as well, if for no reason other than she got a lot of press last year and I'd like to see if she'll live up to it. I do not care to see the Sean John show. Sorry, Sean Combs.
What's YOUR take on Fashion Week? Is the lack of major trend shifts based on this whole recession thing, or are we taking time to actually ENJOY something for a minute before we move onto the next? Or is it just sheer designer laziness (no pun intended)? Weigh in, as I know you will, in the comments section...
God loves a cheerful giver.
there were some beautiful dresses at halston (and some fug ones, too.)
i panned thru every show thus far on wednesday, so, as im commenting before reviewing thursday and fridays offerings, clearly alexander wang killed it. i know this bc i lost my breath with every click.
HOW annoYing were the slide show ads on the fourth or fifth frame though...? it became realllly difficult to keep clicking forward, just anticipating this random ad loading, amidst my rhythmic pace to feel and take in the reoccurring themes and palettes of the lines.
deeeeeep.
omg seriously - those ads were hurting me physically.
I think I liked Katy Rodriguez and Rachel Roy's collections best. Sari Gueron's was pretty lovely, too. I was most looking forward to seeing what the girls of Rodarte would send down the runway, but their pieces didn't move me as much as they did last year. The spiderweb knit tights were pretty fierce, though...
love the neons, LOVE big collars, but fur is never fashionable.