Brightest Young Things

A few weeks ago I was invited to a small press dinner at 1789 hosted by two wonderful women who represent the restaurant. I'm always game for a free meal, and having never eaten at 1789 I was definitely in.

I've kinda avoided the place because I thought it would be a stuffy restaurant, full of stuffy people and serving stuffy food. I was intrigued when I was told that the new Executive Chef was 24, and the pastry chef was 26.

Chef Daniel Giusti took over the kitchen at 1789 in June of 2008. He started his career with the Clyde's Restaurant Group (owner of 1789) at the age of 15, but spent some time studying at the Culinary Insistute of America, in Italy at the Michelin one-star Risoriante Pinocchino and as chef de partie at Guy Savoy in Las Vegas. I must say the guy is a charmer and an excellent chef. His personality was disarming and his approach to food is modern and intrepid. Chef Guisti has taken great pains to revamp 1789, bringing it forward as a more modern dining destination. The menu is revamped and even the dishware has updated to reflect this young chef's personal style.

An impressive new addition to 1789's menu is a $40 pris fix selection. An appetizer, entree and dessert are all offered for a small price, something that should attract new and younger customers. If you go, I'd recommend the Maryland soft shell srab, served in the Saor method which involes deep frying and then lightling pickling, the crab is served with Maviz raisins, pickled ramps, Marcona almonds, preserved citrus and spring greens. It was a new way to serve soft shells that focused on interesting textures and a nice balance between sweet and sour.

The nettles and snail soup I had was very tasty, but a little heavier than I wanted that evening. But really, a very creative dish with a strong bitter spring flavor from the nettles, countered with crispy little beer battered snails. One of the best things I've had all year was the roasted poussin (a very young, small chicken) with smokey blue cheese polenta, baby carrots, roasted young vidalia onions and herb jus. This was tender, and juicy and just delicious. Another stand-out of the night was the rack of lamb, served with farro, merguez sausage, charred onion puree and pickled radishes. The lamb at 1789 has always been the top-seller, but Chef Guisti's fresh take has given a new look to this classic dish. One disappointment of the night was the pork chop. Served with Jerusalem artichoke purée, roasted fennel, hedgehog mushrooms and Burgundy Snails, this would have been a great piece of meat but they sliced it before it rested properly and it dried out. Oh well.

I had to skip out before dessert, which sucks. But these are also made by a young talented chef. Pastry Chef Travis Olson joined on in July 2008. In March 2009, he was nominated for Pastry Chef of the Year by the Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington at their annual RAMMY Awards.

So, if you're looking to try something new, go for the an old standard at 1789.