Good Stuff Eatery with Spike Mendelsohn

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Good Stuff Eatery with Spike Mendelsohn

July 7, 2008 by Scott Shrake Send to a Friend Send to a Friend

all photos: Dakota Fine

Spikeburgers

Move over, America’s Next Top Georgetown Student! There’s a new competition-show refugee in town, and he’s 50% Spikier!

Evangelos “Spike” Mendelsohn, one of the contestants on the recently ended season of Bravo’s Top Chef, is the celeb-real-ity draw at Good Stuff Eatery (303 Pennsylvania Ave. SE on Capitol Hill). The upscale burger-centric lunch spot will grand-open TODAY, with a “red-carpet” event July 14, when some of the other chefs from Top Chef: Chicago will stop by to support their compatriot. I went to the preview last week.

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Good Stuff is a family affair from soup to nuts, if you will. The name is a tribute to Spike’s grandfather Sunny, who apparently used the words “good stuff” to describe most things. Spike’s cool sister Micheline is director of marketing, his parents own it, his mother’s cousin is VP, Spike’s best friend Mike is the general manager…

They’re a nice family. Not quite as nice as my family, because I’m from the Midwest (they’re Greeks from “Muntreal”), but pretty darned nice.

“I’d like to meet the chef that thinks he can make it on his own,” Spike says endearingly.

The dad is one of those loud, gregarious guys that tells corny jokes to the whole room.

The mom is one of those distracted-seeming people, but nice. When you meet her, you suddenly understand Spike.

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They quarrel in front of journalists, which is fun. First there was an issue about where the plastic forks were. Then Spike sat us down and started his spiel, only to be interrupted from under the balcony by his mom loudly demanding that the music be turned down. (His mom is his boss!) Spike shouted, “Mom, can you not yell while I’m trying to have a press conference!”

By the way, I’m watching Intervention as I write this.

This restaurant had been in the works long before Spike was even selected for Top Chef. It looks to me like Spike moved to D.C. to be closer to his family and help them out with this project (and lend his famous-ish face, which, let’s face it, is a smart plan: How much media would have covered this preview without him there?).

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I don’t eat red meat, because it’s gross, but I decided to have a burger anyway. I chose “Spike’s Five-Napkin,” a big rare hamburger with a fried egg (“Put a fried egg on anything and I’ll eat it,” Spike laughs) and bacon on top, served on a toasted Pennsylvania Dutch bun schmiered with infused mayo. It was more like Spike’s 55-Napkin, but I’m a slob.

As a manorexic, I didn’t want fries, but when Spike called my name to come get my burger, he put some on the plate anyway: Spike’s Village Fries (“topped with fresh thyme, rosemary, and cracked pepper”) made with some secret potato the name of which Evangelos would not reveal.

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As I tucked in to the burger, I announced to my table-mates, “I’m no Tom Colicchio, but I’ll try.” No one got it.

The tables are outfitted with Sriracha hot chili sauce, malt vinegar, and sea salt; infused mayos available: Old Bay, Chipotle, Sriracha.

To wash down the blondie I sampled for dessert, I had the Toasted Marshmallow Shake, topped with two of the titular singed puffs. (Greek yogurt is added to counteract the sweetness of the shake.) I could only drink half, it was very rich.

They offer salads (various Iceberg Lettuce Wedges), but they’re topped with onion rings, LOL. Not exactly South Beach Diet-approved, this place. But: The menu offers the option to “shun the bun” and add a meat patty to your Wedge, which is SBD-esque. They use local ingredients, too, they dutifully informed us. Low prices, too, y’all! This isn’t “gourmet burger” time. Under six bucks for a burg (a note fo hope for the non-red meat eaters: they WILL offer vegetarian burgers and turkey burgers too).

Spike emphasized that they are sticking to classics and focusing on perfecting technique.

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Décor: “Modern farm house.” Which means? Shabby Chic faux-distressed floors with wide planks and “worn-off” white paint. Titanium diner chairs. Nice bathrooms. Flat-screen TVs on the second floor. Spike’s mom asked us if we liked the interior and everyone nodded.

Spike is moving here from New York. He just got a place in the Lincoln Park section of D.C., and he and his family are planning to franchise Good Stuff Eatery if it takes off. There’s one in Rosslyn, and the next location is slated for next year on 18th St. NW in Adams Morgan and will focus on dinnertime.

The verdict on Good Stuff Eatery: I feel love, I do. I like Spike, he’s earnest and unpretentious in real life. His family’s been in the food business since 1918, and they seem wholesomely ambitious and eager to please and to listen. Try them.

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lupwned Says:

does the kids’ meal come with a goofy hat?

July 7, 2008 at 9:52 am
Nicole Says:

i too, will eat anything with the addition of a fried egg - especially a burger.

so now the breakfast burger at tunnicliff’s may have some competition. five-napkin, here i come.

July 7, 2008 at 10:37 am
nihilistic pleasures Says:

finally the frozen scallops deal make sense….

July 7, 2008 at 12:03 pm
Stephanie Says:

Spike is awesome.

July 7, 2008 at 12:39 pm
Writerbella Says:

I just went- it’s delicious. This is EXACTLY the “style” DC needs right now. I applaud Spike. I heard he has a cool/gorgeous girlfriend now- which is somewhat heartbreaking but I”m happy for him!

July 7, 2008 at 1:23 pm
EJS Says:

Spike I Like. His Food B Gude. Hes just a great guy and I won’t lie. Bye.

July 7, 2008 at 1:44 pm
Lord Jason Says:

note to Scott: if you are going to write about a restaurant, please tell us what the food tastes like and whether it was good, bad, or completely mediocre. All I got out of this was that you like Spike as a person, and the decor was shabby and nice. HOW WAS THE BURGER? HOW WERE THE FRIES?!?!

All you do is mention WHAT you ate, and that you don’t like red meat, and are manorexic. Which, admittedly, is definitely a new angle for someone writing about food to take.

Now, go read my movie reviews where I just rant about my life for awhile and don’t really ever talk about the movie at all.

The more you know.

July 7, 2008 at 2:02 pm
Ace Says:

I’m contemplating taking a day off from work just so I can go here for lunch. Yes, it has been that big of a deal.

July 7, 2008 at 3:59 pm
Paul E. Boy Says:

I’m still mourning the loss of the Hill’s Sherrill’s Restaurant and Bakery but I do look forward to checking this place out next time I’m back in my hometown. A burger for under six bucks? In DC? Amazing. How big was it?

But… yes, what did it all taste like, Scott?

July 7, 2008 at 4:02 pm
Alex Clifford Says:

Good choice of venue and great pics. Did he mention what kind of meat he uses to make the burgers? Also, for the fried-egg-on-burger lovers, Stoney’s does a great version.

July 7, 2008 at 5:42 pm
Janie Says:

So how was the burger? Juicy? Well-seasoned? How were the fries? Crispy, soggy, neither? Glad something else opened on CapHill but while the interior seems nice enough, I don’t see where you get “upscale” Looks kinda like Johnny Rockets

July 7, 2008 at 5:54 pm
LaughOutLoud Says:

I thought the food was awesome…just had an amazing burger (turkey with perfect avocado) fries were salty and delish. The toasted marshmallow shake? Ummm yeah, start craving it…it was amazing. Overall - good stuff - good job.

July 7, 2008 at 6:29 pm
dannys Says:

is that a cowbell hanging from the ceiling?

July 7, 2008 at 6:36 pm
dan Says:

agree with janie, more info for food reviews … this is more a testament to spikes celebrity/likeability + photo spread (sushi taro report is much better, maybe that’s just because the restaurant more notable?) keep trying though! i like red-meat! however, i’m marginally so i’d have to dictate the review …

July 7, 2008 at 7:04 pm
alyssa Says:

um, definitely the hottest contestant on top chef…

July 7, 2008 at 7:08 pm
Jon Says:

um, yeah. this review is lacking. also, please don’t say ‘you don’t eat red meat’ in bold and then order a burger. it makes no sense. and makes you look more stupid than this poorly written review.

July 7, 2008 at 7:46 pm
Scott Shrake Says:

Hi, everybody. Point taken about my lack of opinion on the food. I’m not a food critic. I covered this because I’m a fan of Top Chef. Someone I know had a very trenchant observation about Top Chef that is also applicable here: Unlike with Project Runway, ANTM, etc., where you can judge with your own eyes how successful the fashions, photos, etc. are, on Top Chef you have to take the judges’ word for how things taste. All you know are the ingredients and the descriptors the judges use, but maybe you have a different palate and you wouldn’t agree — they never agree among themselves! What’s the old saying, there’s no accounting for taste?

Same principle goes for my article above. I told you the ingredients (and told you Spike assured us it was all local and all top quality), and I recommended the place and its food, because it tasted good to me overall.

If I were sitting in Tom Colicchio’s chair maybe I’d say: The burger was too rare for me (which Spike apologized for later), the fries were not as crispy as I like (but were deliciously seasoned), the toasted marshmallow milkshake didn’t taste enough like marshmallow for me (but maybe I’ve got cloddish tastebuds, I don’t know), though it was as thick and rich as any milkshake I’ve ever had. I tasted all the infused mayos and they were deliciously unusual, and very creative (like the Sriracha one). The blondie was as toothsome as any I’ve tasted.

Anyway, thank you all for reading and for keeping your criticisms constructive. I appreciate.

I heard the line to get in to GSE was around the block today, so I’m sure plenty of you have opinions to share. The ones above are all positive so far!

SS

July 7, 2008 at 8:06 pm
lulu loves food Says:

this place is a hit. everyone was talking about it today. spike is a real winner. and yes, i asked his buddy, he does have a new girlfriend on top of a hit restaurant. good for spike. ps. the blog was written nicely, no complains here, keep it up SS.

July 7, 2008 at 8:41 pm
Lori Says:

I’m normally a carnivore, but wasn’t in the mood tonight, so I had the mushroom burger — really really tasty. Really nice family run joint, and Spike wasn’t all “ooh, look at me, I’m from the tee-vee” — he was very polite and working his butt off.

July 7, 2008 at 10:13 pm
victim of deliciousness Says:

Seriously people did you REALLY expect someone to review a burger joint owned by a celebreality with the fervor of a Tom Seistsma (sp)??? how many of his reviews do you actually listen to anyway? I thought this review accomplished what most people want to know about this place and then some. It was implied that the burger didn’t suck and that everything else Scott tasted was good-enough by the omission of anything negative. I think the point is “do i want to go or stay home?” which I believe Scott’s article was all about. IT”S A BURGER JOINT not FINE-DINING, geesh. I applaud this review and all it’s merits. To the haters I say, “get over yourself and just enjoy a review that DOESN’T interject boorish hyperbole.” Thank you Mr. Shraka, thank you indeed.

July 8, 2008 at 7:28 pm
Lord Jason Says:

dear Victim of Deliciousness:

All I expect out of a column about food is some explanation of what the food tasted like. Sorry

I’m not sure what “most people” wanted to know about this new restaurant, but (usually) when I hear about a restaurant, I want to know whether the food is good or not.

and there you fucking are.

July 9, 2008 at 2:32 am
Michael Says:

Hear hear, LJ.

I could give a fuck if the chef was on TV, if he’s banging Jessica Simpson AND Britney’s younger sister AND Ted Turner all at the same time, or if he’s cute, or nice, or where his family is from.

I want to know if the food is good and, if it is, if it is reasonably priced without charging more for it because the chef is banging Jessica Simpson and Brintney’s younger sister AND Ted Turner and has been on some stupid tv show.

July 9, 2008 at 8:04 am
Please Says:

tell us how you can make a better burger cheaper and in less time. Then maybe write another ghey article about shaving or write about tugging it to motor scooters…i can’t wait!

July 9, 2008 at 8:55 am
Michael Says:

Please - you and your mom both! Or maybe it’s just your mom. Regardless anytime you see “Michael” next to an article just skip over it. It will probably end up in your inbox anyway because my shit is brilliant writing and tens of thousands of people forward it around to each other, but at that point you can mark it as spam.

Anyway, anonymity when criticizing on the internet is GAY. Not Ghey as in a lame attempt to get around writing GAY, but absofuckingGAY.

July 9, 2008 at 9:38 am
Nicole Says:

I had Ray’s Hell Burger last night.

Seriously it was 10 oz of hamburger bliss. Cooked ‘recommended’ which is a little rarer than medium rare and with the diablo seasoning, I had it topped with the aged Vermont chedder and sauteed mushrooms and peppers, dill pickle slices and Ray’s Hell Sauce, which is like a chipotle mayo concoction. It came with a side of corn on the cob and a slice of watermelon. Everything was the right amount and cooked perfectly. They even have Old Dominion root beer on tap (in addition to a variety of bottled drinks like Moxie, Nehi, Cheerwine and Boyle’s).

My boy had his burger with Brie and he was super pleased. The other couple we went with had bacon/swiss burgers and were equally happy. The other friend had his burger cooked their version of well-done - which isn’t crispy - but I couldn’t imagine getting one of these burgers (or any burger) cooked well.

I went expecting it to be busy and I was right, we stood in the corner for a while waiting for a table to open up and we pounced. The decor is minimal and food and service were great and quick and adequately priced. Between the boy and I we spent $22 and had a healthy food coma to boot.

They don’t have fries, but if you’re a potato freak you can get chips. The corn and watermelon are good though and you don’t miss the fries at all. At least, I didn’t. Also, it’s cash only… which tripped me up a bit - had to run to the ATM around the corner.

Overall, it was awesome and I can’t wait to try Spike’s. I want a fried egg burger like yesterday.

July 9, 2008 at 9:52 am
Sexy Fitsum Says:

Burgerdemic in the area — http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2008/07/08/AR2008070800757.html?hpid=artslot

July 9, 2008 at 1:49 pm
b Says:

OK, why in God of Hellfire’s name would you send a metrosexual, non-redmeat eating ninny to review a hamburger joint? This is the very essence of BYT’s problem. GET OUT OF THE CLUBS. SMELL THE AIR.

July 9, 2008 at 6:01 pm
Michael Says:

Please - btw, Spike hearts scooters. We’re two-wheel attacking the place on Saturday for burgers.

July 11, 2008 at 10:46 am
Meaghan Says:

Went two days ago for lunch, and the burger was good. The wait to order was long, a half an hour just to order, and we waited until after a normal lunch rush to go in. The wait for food was absurd. From the time I order to the time I got my burger was 40 minutes! This place needs to seriously work out some kinks. I was not a fan of their bit sized fries, too hard.

Five Guys is way better.

July 11, 2008 at 12:22 pm
Cole Says:

I ate there. It sucked.

July 11, 2008 at 6:56 pm