BYT Empire

Brightest Young Things


All photos: Stephanie Breijo
All words: Logan Donaldson

In anticipation of the Washington Humane Society's 11th annual Sugar and Champagne benefit at the Corcoran Gallery, BYT was invited to preview some of the drinks and desserts being served the February 1st event. As a hint of what's to come, the full feature will surely be one of the most decadent food events of the year. Proceeds go toward stopping animal cruelty, so you can fill up your heart along with your belly.

Executive pastry chef Courtney Goldian served up miniature versions of Founding Farmers' Chocolate Peanut Butter Pie. They feature four layers of deliciousness: a base of pestled graham cracker granules, organic peanut butter mousse, ganache, and ornamented with caramel popcorn. Each bite enjoys a trio of texture: grainy, creamy, and a robust crunch of candied popcorn. Being that peanut butter and chocolate are one of the greatest (dessert) pairings, these were a highlight of the night.

Mixologist Sam Babcock, representing Bandolero (opening in Georgetown this Spring), served up a cocktail of tequila, St-Germain, homemade syrup and a pinch of ground cinnamon. Like biting into ripe fruit, it was sweet, a little tart, but above all, refreshing. The only downside is how it easy it is to drink one too many.

Doran Peterson, owner of Sticky Fingers and two-time winner of Food Network's Cupcake Wars, treated us with three of her vegan recipes. The Cowvin Cookie is vanilla cream filled oatmeal cookie sandwich. It has a lovely salt kick to balance out the sweet cream, and the oatmeal flavors only emerge after you think the fun is over. The Chocolate Love cupcakes consist of a rich chocolate cake, and a light icing that is thankfully subtle on flavor, lest your mouth cave into a thick quagmire of chocolate, an affliction that begs for a glass of milk. Jenny's Brownies are made with three different types of chocolate and espresso. They are compact and moist and taste delicious like all brownies are obligated to be. And the kicker: I had no idea these were vegan recipes till I was done zoning out in a rhapsodic dessert day dream.

Tom Wellings, executive pastry chef at Watershed, crafted small beams of chocolate crémeux sprinkled with alba hazelnut and maldon sea salt, of which the latter two ingredients—still bearing in mind I had no milk!—provided a much needed unthickening of the tongue. It had a gooey consistency and slid over the palette with a buttery lacquer. The little chocoplanks were also topped with wisp-thin sugar wafers that accented the dessert with a crispy crackle.

Over at the Graffiato display, guests were being served "The Kingdom Come" cocktail by head mixologist Taha Ismail and owner/Top Chef contestant Mike Isabella (pictured). The drink is comprised of Bluecoat gin, liqueur suffused with a host of herbs, passion fruit purée, bitters and cherry garnishes. With a blunted grapefruit taste, it goes down smooth with almost no lingering hint of spirits. It's strong on semisweet citrus notes—that is, until you flick the gin soaked cherries in your mouth that explode like little alcohol grenades.

Flipping the script (no chocolate or alcohol) was a sweet appetizer from Todd Gray's Muse: a tar-tar of heirloom beets with winter citrus and crispy garlic chips. The beets, diced up into little bits, slip playfully along the tongue and have a hint of pickled flavor.



Previously in taste test:

God loves a cheerful giver.

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