Brightest Young Things

all photos: Kimberly Cadena

The SW Waterfront neighborhood has been long in need of grown-up dining options. Sure, there's the lunch choices and embarking on the waterfront itself for their summery mainstays (who doesn't have fond memories of some happy hour at Cantina Marina?), but with the Arena Stage having one of their best seasons yet, the new Kastles stadium and more and more offices popping up in the neighborhood - the area was ripe for, well, a proper date spot.

Station 4 to the rescue. And while it is something new for the neighborhood, it is also something new for it's owner Med Lahlou who you may know as the man that runs some of your favorite casual hang-out spots, no matter where you live: Stoney's, Ulah and Tunnicliff's. Here, Lahlou goes the more, well, sexy, route.

Decor wise, it is ALL ABOUT THE LIGHTING AND THE TEXTURES. Lush velvets and rich leathers in every "turn-on" color known to mankind (champagne, lipstick red...) fill the room and if you're in the mood to set the mood, the sparkly chandeliers and discreet candle-light at the tables got your back.

Now-about the food. And the drinks. The restaurant does have a fully operational (and bound to be popular with after-work crowd) bar with a simple, modern but classic cocktail list (moscow mule was the #1 cocktail we were recommended, which was nice if not quite as gingery as we'd love, but then, we DO like our ginger very gingery so...) and the staff seems knowledgeable about what wine/champagne may go best with your meal and/or your special occasion.

The chef, Orlando Amaro, has been plucked from Miami's BLUE MOON and has a six month apprenticeship with Ferran Adria (of El Bulli fame) under his belt and, hands down, the small seafood appetizer plates are his forte. The charred octopus (with potato confit, smoked paprikaaioli and tomato-feta tartar) was probably our favorite thing we had all night, perfectly cooked and smoky, so much so that we'd come back for those anyday, and the spicy tuna cubes bear the telling yuzu air that shows Chef Amaro's mollecular gastronomy tendencies.

It should be noted that while the restaurant does offer an elaborate pizza and salad selection (including a very promising looking beet with mint and goat cheese brulee number which I'm ordering next time), we decided to dig into something a little more substantial for our main course so Kimberly had the Beef Short Ribs Papparedelle and I went for the jumbo lump crab cake.

The ribs (which you can see above) come presented in a refreshingly homey way, especially in a place as intent on seducing you as this one, and implies that, even in a perfectly appointed "proper date" atmosphere as this one, even the ladies should go for the real food. Served with caramelized shallots, sweet peasand black truffle essence, and a toasted baguette side, it is a perfect dish to look forward to as the weather gets cooler: rich and filling, but not overwhelming.

The crab cake (with roasted pepper with mango ceviche,a corn purée and asparagus foam) is, obviously, the lighter choice-very Miami and nuevo cuisine angled, and while the crab was delicious and fresh, it did get a little bit buried under all the fruits and vegetables surrounding it. In the appetizers, the seafood literally SANG so it would be amazing to let it take front and center stage in the entrees too.

The desserts, as you can imagine, are, well, sexy (I've used that word one time too many in this review, and for this I apologize). Whether it's the molten chocolate lava cake or the tres leches with a marshmallow on top, and down to the brandied mascarpone and strawberries, if the fabrics, and the lighting, and the champagne and the seafood don't do their job-you can count on the desserts to seal the deal. Add one of the dessert wines from their well curated selection, and kid, YES, you're getting lucky tonight.

Previously in food porn:

• 5/15: NEXT WEEK: BYT + Art and Soul (FREE) Crab Boil Patio Happy Hour
• 5/9: James Beard Awards 2012-A Field Guide
• 5/7: Trucko de Mayo @ RFK Stadium
• 5/1: PHOTOS: Class Is In Session
• 4/23: This Saturday come to: CLASS IS IN SESSION - Amazing Food, Amazing Drinks, A Good Cause
• 4/19: European Eats: Provence & Parma
• 2/9: Valentine's Day is Made For Chocolates-A Handy DC/MD/VA Guide To Make The Most of It!
• 12/7: SILF: Sandwich I'd Like to F*ck
• 11/8: Diabetes Fighting WING + CUPCAKE Eating Contest @ DURKL
• 10/6: Country Fried Bacon, anyone? Get ready for BACON WEEK @ Restaurant 3